WHAT I SURF – Jackson Carey
Kids break all the rules.
I’m working with Jackson Carey a young surfer from Narrabeen as part of my local program. This is good for me to be able to test out my model program with a variety of surfers at a very high level and gain valuable instant feedback.
This will keep everything on track and produce a range of consistent balanced boards that keep evolving and improving.
The model program has varying characteristics or design elements that create a different feel and look.
Along with this is a recommended length/width/thickness ratio to again produce a point of difference and allow each model to excel in different conditions.
Jackson like most young guys thinks outside the box and asks for dimensions at variance to the recommended.
This is OK because it follows the course of surfboard design evolution throughout our history.
Trying something different and/or getting it wrong to produce an unexpected benefit in performance. It’s not rocket science as we all know, no tank testing, no PHD’s, no textbook with a guideline of understood cause and effect.
Jackson’s normal board (small wave all-rounder) dimensions are 5’9 18⅜ 2 3/16 around 24 litres.
For a small wave board he ordered a 5Spark at 5’8 18⅜ 2⅛ Swallow 23.93 litres (the thickness is what he used to surf 18 months ago).
The recommended dimensions in line with the model outline would be 5’6 19 2 3/16 Swallow. This will give you a super loose feeling small wave board for 1 to 3 feet waves.
Conditions that you can expect 50 to 70% of the time in most populated urban surf regions.
So a very important board to have in your quiver and important to get it right.
But in Jackson’s case as a super fit surfer with talent the general rules do not apply.
And even though he could surf a 5Spark at 5’6 he doesn’t really need to.
His 5’9 boards are already super fast and loose and can handle 1 to 3 feet surf pretty well.
So by going just the 1” shorter and same width and thickness in a 5Spark model he gains all the character of 5S but maintains versatility.
Jackson’s 5’8 5S board will surf up and perform like an all-rounder but still be good in 1 to 3 feet.