Many surfers make their way to Indo in winter, basically the waves are pumping and there are many locations opening up to accommodate the influx.
For me it’s a good chance to brush up on good wave boards and see what’s going on.
From what I can see so far there is a variety of waves being ridden on a variety of board designs.The trend is smaller boards, no surprise and there seems to be a few fish style or wider nose boards in the mix.This is good and bad, good for average surfers who can stroke in a little easier to the juicier, faster moving swells but sometimes bad in that they are catching a few edges when manoeuvering in and around the pocket.
My advice to average surfers is to stick to conventional shape boards and if you need a little more volume just go longer and maybe a touch thicker. Particularly for waves like Ulu and G Land.
Ulu at the Peak section of the reef is the wipe out capital of the world, I have seen numerous horrendous wipe outs out there. Things happen real quick at the Peak it draws up slowly and then all of sudden the bottom drops out resulting in many over the falls or nose dive to over the handle bars lip in the back of the head stuff.
For me I’m surfing conventional DSC model boards with ever decreasing concave thickness the longer the boards are.
I have my 2 brothers here at the same time and we are surfing 7 boards from 6’4 T&T new model to 6’5 Face Dancer 6’9 DSCV, 6’9 DSC, 7’0, 7’3 and 7’6 DSC boards.
Looking forward to better fitness and really being able to work through the boards and learn more.